Heavily influenced by music, pop culture, and 70’s style, the Fall/Winter collections of New York Fashion Week 2016 were full of striking color, heavy layering, and dense prints. Elongated sleeves, boxy tailoring, and metallic palettes stole almost every show, while in the world of menswear, uniformity and leisure wear were key elements. Bringing forward designers both familiar and new, the fashion event of the winter season offers designers a chance to make a statement, and set the style stage for the upcoming months. Straight from the latest shows, here are the trends that caught our eye during NYFW:
Not afraid to stand out, designers Mara Hoffman and Diane von Furstenberg presented collections that fit right into the 70’s, offering disco inspired prints and color. Von Furstenberg kept it youthful and sexy, showing variations of her signature wrap dress in slinky silhouettes and high slits complemented by gold, silk, and loud patterns, while Hoffman’s eclectic vision contained animal and tribal prints, wide leg pants, and flowing jumpsuits. The Joseph Altuzarra collection utilized fabrics rich in jewel tones, accented with stripes and paisley prints. Pieces like chunky, textured knit tops and fitted trousers strengthened his unique style and aesthetic.
There is no doubt that there is an art to layering, and collections featured during NYFW will have you not only embracing, but hoping for cold weather. BCBG Max Azria used torn leggings and unusual sleeve, coat, and dress proportions to show off their impeccable technique. Using pieces like heavy, oversized coats and contrasting them with lightweight asymmetric skirts showed just how versatile the layering effect can be. Rag & Bone, from designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, offered looks for men and women. In both collections, they took advantage of the “athleisure” (athletic and leisure wear) trend, toying with separates like oversized jackets and relaxed, slouched pants, all which conveyed an easiness to everyday street wear. Similarly, menswear designer John Elliott used textures and fabrics such as leather and suede to redefine how we see pieces like sweatpants and sweatshirts, juxtaposing classic elements with luxury, accentuating what we consider to be wardrobe staples.
Monique Lhuillier’s latest collection can be described as ethereal, romantic, and eccentric. Floral appliques, lace, fur collars, and glitter socks are just some of the finishing touches that the designer put forward, accenting pieces like cigarette pants, evening gowns, and outerwear. Designer Nicole Miller presented a darker take on floral prints, incorporating a more winter inspired collection with deep base colors and metallic details. Miller used textures like tassels and ruffles to lighten the arctic feel, completing a few looks with fur hats. Also taking inspiration from the 70s, Kate Spade’s bohemian fall collection was packed with floral detail and pink prints. Tailored coats and pants played perfectly with the funky, posh patterns the collection showcased, staying true to the brand’s classic feminine and flirty style.
Stylist turned designer, Rachel Zoe put out her strongest collection, composed of beaded, flapper inspired dresses. While contrasting masculine and feminine (hard versus soft), Zoe used silk, fringe, and pearls to add shine to her garments, leaving us with old Hollywood glamour vibes. At the Zimmermann show, shiny fabrics with sparkling details were front and center. Reflective accents on flowing sleeves and pants provided an effortlessness while still remaining rich and luxurious. Most known for her bridal collections, Jenny Packham also used 70s-80s disco as inspiration for her ready-to-wear collection. Incorporating elements like long billowy sleeves, with sparkly details such as sequins and glitter tulle, her dresses are the true essence of glamour and sophistication.
As Creative Director and Brand Ambassador for Puma, Rihanna debuted her Fenty X Puma collection at NYFW. Aimed towards her own edgy, sometimes gothic style, the brand was definitely revamped into something unique for both men and women. Stemming from sportswear, looks featured thigh high lace up boots, crop tops, and sheer dresses. And if you’re looking for more practical athletic wear, she also featured strappy sports bras and a variety of sneakers. Designer Alexander Wang stayed true to his rebel ways with tweed skirts, tattered hems, and biker jackets with industrial zippers. Keeping 80s rock ‘n’ roll in mind, Wang delivered a collection full of angst, attitude, and gritty style. Menswear designer John Varvatos presented his 2016 collection by having his models pose alongside mannequins, and he decorated the store with blood splattered walls and coffins. Aside from sporting animal masks, models also wore jackets made of leather and velvet, animal printed tuxedos, and oversized cardigans with distressed boots and bags.